Forging
UNIQUE TOOLS
Each forging press has unique tools tailored to individual axe models. When a new axe model is to be forged, the smith must change all the tools in the press, which can take up to four days before everything is in place and the press can be operated.
FORGING AN AXE
The steel is heated to approximately 1200 degrees Celsius. The smith gauges the temperature by the color of the steel and cuts off as much material as needed. The steel is then processed and shaped into an axe using the press. The entire axe head is forged in a single heating, so the smith must be precise to ensure the press strikes in the right places. As the steel is processed with great force and repeated strikes, the material’s structure is refined. This allows our axes to have a broader and thinner edge with better sharpness than axes made with fewer strikes.
SWEDISH QUALITY STEEL
The steel we use for our axes is a specially alloyed recycled steel with a carbon content of 0.55%, making it optimal for forging and hardening. The steel is delivered as bars, sized according to the material needs of the different axe models.
Rough grinding
After forging, the axes are taken to the grinding shop. The part of the axe where the edge will later take shape is rough-hewn after forging. The first step for the grinder is to perform rough grinding to create the initial grind phase and edge angle.
ROUGH GRINDING BY HAND
All models are ground by hand using a grinding horse, which resembles a bicycle saddle. This tool reduces the strain on the grinder’s shoulders by allowing them to use their body weight to apply pressure to the edge. Axes have different grind phases depending on their intended use. The three most common are convex, concave, and facet grinds. Since the axes are hand-forged, they can vary in thickness even within the same model. Therefore, grinding must be adjusted for each individual axe. Once the axe has its grind phase and edge angle, it is sent on for hardening and tempering.
MODIFIED BELT GRINDERS
The grinding machines we use for rough grinding are old belt grinders that have been modified to suit our axe production. They are equipped with frequency-controlled motors so that the belt speed can be adjusted to match both the axe model and the grinder’s preferences.
DIFFERENT GRINDING BELTS DEPENDING ON AXE
For grinding the axes, a belt with either 50 or 80 grit is used. A 50-grit belt removes more material than an 80-grit belt.
Hardening and tempering
After rough grinding, the axe must be hardened and tempered. Hardening involves rapidly cooling the steel to make it hard. Tempering is necessary to restore some toughness to the steel, making the axe usable.
HARDENING MAKES THE STEEL HARD
To create a good axe, the steel must be fully hardened. Hardness is measured using the Rockwell C scale, which assesses the hardness of metals. Our axes are fully hardened to approximately 63 Rockwell. At this hardness level, part of the steel’s structure changes, making the axe better and stronger. During hardening, the axe’s edge is heated to about 820 degrees Celsius and then quickly cooled in cold water. Hardening makes the steel harder but also more brittle, almost like glass. Therefore, the axe must be tempered after hardening.
TEMPERING MAKES THE AXE STRONG
To restore some toughness to the hardened steel so the axe doesn’t chip during use, the next step is tempering. This involves reheating the steel, this time to about 200 degrees Celsius. This process results in the axe’s hardness settling around 57 Rockwell.
TUMBLING
After tempering, the axe head is tumbled. This can be likened to a large washing machine where small ceramic balls, along with water, polish the surface and remove any slag that may have resulted from forging. The axe head is then dried with warm cornflour. The flour absorbs all the water and helps prevent the axe head from rusting.
IMPACT TEST
Once all the above steps are completed, we perform an impact test by striking the axe edge twice with a hammer. This test is conducted on all axes to ensure they have been properly hardened and tempered. If a chip is knocked off, the axe is too hard; if it is too soft, the edge may bend. We discard these axes and return them to our steel supplier, who makes new blanks from them.
Fine grinding
After the rough grinding and the subsequent hardening, tempering, tumbling, and impact testing, the axe undergoes fine grinding to achieve a precise and refined edge.
FINE GRINDING PROCESS
In fine grinding, the axe head is meticulously refined to ensure a sharp, clean edge. This stage involves using finer grit belts or wheels to smooth out any imperfections left from the rough grinding and to sharpen the edge to the desired level.
HAND FINISHING
The fine grinding is often done by hand to achieve the exact sharpness and finish required. Skilled craftsmen use precision tools to ensure the edge is perfectly honed and the overall appearance of the axe head is polished.
FINAL INSPECTION
After fine grinding, the axe undergoes a final inspection to check for consistency in the edge and overall quality. This ensures that the axe meets the high standards required before it is considered ready for use or sale.
APPLICATION OF FINISH
Sometimes, a protective finish or coating is applied to prevent rust and enhance the appearance of the axe. This step may vary depending on the specific requirements and preferences for the axe’s final presentation.
Shafting
The final step for the axes before they are packaged is attaching the handles, a process known as shafting.
HICKORY HANDLES
Most of the handles we use are made from hickory wood sourced from the southern United States. Hickory is an excellent material for handles due to its strength, flexibility, and long fibers. The handles are turned to match our axe models and treated with warm linseed oil and water-repellent beeswax before they reach us.
ATTACHING THE HANDLE
The handle is first lightly inserted into the eye of the axe. The shafting process then involves placing the axe in a pneumatic press, which forces the handle the rest of the way in with a maximum pressure of 2 tons. To ensure the axe head remains securely attached to the handle, a wooden wedge, dipped in regular wood glue, is driven into a small slot at the top of the handle. This wedge forces the handle to expand tightly within the axe eye. Once the wedge is in place, the shafting technician trims any excess material and smooths the handle with a knife. Finally, the top of the handle is dipped in oil to seal the wood fibers.
FINAL INSPECTION
Before the axe is sent off, the shafting technician inspects the axe to ensure the handle is properly aligned with the axe head. Once the inspection is complete, the axe is placed in a box and sent on to our final quality control and packaging.
